This weekend I realized that I need to recover from my latent elbow and finger injuries. Therefore, I will not jump into Power phase till after El Cap. My elbow will have to feel 100% healed before P and PE phases start.
Meanwhile, I am going to concentrate on active rest: running, biking, surfing, and yoga. Also, I am going to work on my weight management goal: drop to 160 lbs by summer.
Start weight: 166.6 lbs
DON'Ts:
- no food after 8pm in town
- no cheese in town
- no bread in town
DO's:
- daily running
- some additional cardio via yoga, biking or surfing
Still thinking whether I should keep paragliding as a hobby. It does not add to training, but is such a good rest activity.
My original goal is to get down to under 165 lbs by the end of the April. However, for the last few weeks I was not able to keep a diet that I would call perfect, or close to it. Climbing El Cap via the Salathe Wall, working on a backcountry first ascent, climbing trip to Yosemite, trying to hangboard and get strong in the gym doesn't allow to live on 1500 calories. I tried to eat healthy, but my problem is binge snacking. :(
ReplyDeleteMy workout program been oriented around outdoor climbing trips, and was not perfect too!
BUT I noticed gains in my strength, which is great.
So here are my last few weeks' schedule:
Climbed the Salathe wall in 3 days (including Freeblast). Took a rest day Sunday.
Monday - bouldered/Hangboard.
Tuesday REST
Wednesday - bouldered/Hangboard. Tried a v6. Got close but couldn't get it. Did a few v4s, including a pumpy laybacky one.
Thursday REST and a massage
Friday REST/Drive to Yosemite
Saturday: Did a 8 pitch 11+ C1 (or 5.12a) route on Mt. Broderick. A lot of 5.11 and 11+ laybacking. 4+ hours of hiking that day as well.
Sunday: worked on slabby boulder problems around camp 4 and mostly ate and took shits. Limited pumpy bouldering even though I did try one pumpy problem several times. Felt out of energy from a long day on Saturday.
Monday: Wanted to do a bit of bouldering and power endurance...SENT the v6, did the laybacky pumpy v4 and DOWNCLIMBED it to the 2nd hold from the start. Did laps on finger/hand cracks and face. This all took about an hour and a half. So I wanted to finish my workout with leg raises and some frenchies. After 3 sets of leg raises and 2 sets of frenchies I decided to hang on some small holds to finish myself. To my surprise I felt stronger than usual. Hold that I was able to hang on to for 7 seconds max prior, I was able to do for 12 seconds! It wasn't a proper HB session. Instead of the usual 8 10 sec hangs w/ 10 sec rest or 7:3, I did a warm up of 7:3/5 and than did max hangs on smallest things I can hang to for 5-7 seconds with 30 seconds of rest in between. Did that for 12 or so reps and finished with my last frenchies. Weight after the workout was 166 lbs!
The bad: diet/workouts don't seem perfect
The good: I feel stronger
The goal:
Send, or at least attempt to send at least one 12a during Indian Creek trip April 30th-4th of May. Send Big Baby (5.11 OW). Do a tower.
Be under 165 lbs and improve power endurance before the trip to improve my chances of sendin. :)
Plan:
Rest today. Maybe get a massage!
Wednesday: Power Endurance eve at Mission Cliffs. Work on the layback crack (lead and lap). Work on the wide chimney to layback crack. It is freaking tough! Lap crimpy climbs.
Thursday rest/drive.
Friday-Sunday: First ascent(s) in Sequoia. On Sunday it will be a bunch of power endurance because climb we are hoping to work on is pumpy. Will maybe lap it to get a good workout? If not maybe take it easy and have two days of training on Monday and Wednesday before another trip to Sequoia on the following week (Friday-Sunday).
NO KIND BAR SNACKING AT HOME!
More veggies!
Maybe plan my meals for the day and keep to it? Not sure, but it is hard to keep myself from snacking! :(
Man, you are an animal for sure. I realize that my workouts are a bit too structured. Even though it might be good, I need to customize them more.
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