Thursday, March 26, 2015

ARC 6

Getting a cold scrapped my plans to climb Leaning Tower with Ivan.  That is actually good for nursing my elbow.  Too bad I let Ivan down this time.

I went ARCing at Cliffs as I felt better in the afternoon.  I ran two 31 min and one 35 min sessions.  I did overdo it a little, as I was back to feeling crappy at the end of the workout.  I skipped yoga and went home.

Gotta restart my mental training and technique exercises!

No plans for the weekend.  I will play it by ear: depending how I feel.

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

HB 6

Yesterday, after a week of rest I started training again. Here are my stats:

Hangboard (First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.)

Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*7, +65*5
MR pocket:
+15*6, +20*3.  Reduce or skip next time (injury!)
Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-5*6, 0*3 .  Reduce next time.
IMR pocket:
+40*7, +50*6
Wide pinch:
-35*6, -30*2.  Hangboard getting slippery.  Reduce weight?
Sloper:
+20*6,+30*5
IM pocket
-30*4,-25*4
Narrow pinch:
-50*7,-40*4

I have obviously plateaued and regressed.  My stats have gotten worse.  I can attribute some of it to the elbow and finger injuries.  I am going to take another break till next week,  If my stats do not come back, I am going to go into power phase given that I am 100% injury free then.

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

This is my training cycle 2

So psyched!  My training is paying off!  I am finally happy with my mental game progress as well.  I am able to commit to climbing above gear, though with some initial hesitation.  Baby steps!

I just need to be disciplined so that I don't get injured: don't climb and train hard at the same time!  My elbow and hands are jacked after venturing on Silk Road at the Calaveras Dome. 

So, this week, I am unfortunately taking a forced rest.

I am on the strength phase, half way through.  Next is the hang board workout 6 (HB6).  Most likely, my fingers will heal only next week.  Hitting cardio and core!