Friday, April 24, 2015

Rehab 3 + 164.4

Yesterday, I left work a little bit late (come ON D, wtf!).  I was able to do my shoulder stretch and 1 set of core.  Than I went to Jodi's yoga class.

Today, I went for a jog in the morning.  Was going to do my stretches in the evening at home.

Tomorrow, I have just a jog planned and a bunch of housekeeping.  Might just hang back and do some reading or try to visit the city.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Rehab 2 + 165.6

Yesterday, I did not go jogging, nor did I do it today.  I did not do my 5 stretches. Not good!

I realize that 5 stretches is a total overkill.  I think 3 stretches and some shoulder ROM exercises are much better.

So, today, I am going to leave work at 5 and do the shoulder/wrist stretches and core at MC.

Tomorrow, Friday, I am going to jog to Rockaway and do my shoulder/wrist stretches at home.

Elsewhere, I am 165.6 lbs this morning. Psyched!

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Rehab 1

Yesterday, I managed to do all 5 wrist/elbow stretches and went jogging after work.  It got dark and drizzly, so I skipped jogging from Mori point to home on the beach; I went on the road instead.  Went to sleep at 10pm as planned.

Today, got up at 5:30am and went to the gym.  I stretched hips, climbed 5 min and did 3 sets of hollows and supermans. I skipped hand stand, most curls, and pull up exercises.  Still feeling sore in my elbow and shoulder.  Have done 2 wrist stretches so far.

Tomorrow is a rest day.  Go jogging at 8 am and do yoga at 6:30pm.  Ron showed me some shoulder exercises.  I will do them before yoga.

Taking Friday and Saturday off too.

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Tendonitis Rehab

Recovering from the right elbow tendonitis, I have stopped most exercises except cardio, which cast me into feeling blue.  Today, I have decided to fight back with a rehab program: rest by itself is not enough to recover quickly.  To accelerate the recovery, I am starting Progressive Rehab.

During rehab, I am going to:
1. Keep up the blog daily, summarizing the previous day workout and planning for the next day.
2. (at least this week) do wrist, finger, and elbow stretches 5 times a day around 8,11,2,5,8 o'clock.  Add arm kneading and arm aid. After rehab, I am going to do those before (lightly) and after every workout/climbing session, religiously.
3. Jog every day.
4. Manage weight: no bread, no cheese, 2-3 small meals (at least 1 salad), snacking, no food after 8, go to sleep early.  Goal 160 lbs by the end of May. 1 lb/week.
5. Keep up the regular workout stretches, substituting power phase with core, hand stand training, opposing muscle ex., hip and shoulder stretches (Range Of Motion).
6. Start ARC and rope climbing on giant holds (1 time this week).
7. Apply ice 1-2 hours after workout.

Analysis: this is a general overuse episode.  This means I am pushing hard, but not smart.  From now on, I am going to do all the stretches around the workout (see above) and apply ice after every workout.  Also, after I climb hard outside, I will make sure I take at least 2-3 days of rest.
The key is LISTEN TO YOUR BODY and TAKE ACTION.

Yesterday was a stressful day, since I am trying to share the house with a neighbor.  I did not go jogging as the weather was especially windy and cold.

Today, I am going for a jog after work.  I will try to read a little, but go to bed before 10 pm.

Tomorrow,  I am going to get up at 5, stretch, and be at the gym by 6:30am.  A light ARC (5 min), stretches (including wrists), opposing muscle work, and core.  Jog in the evening.

Monday, April 20, 2015

167.0

Oh well, it happened to me too.  I am pretty sure I got tendonitis in my right elbow.  While I have had the episodes of it before, my elbow recovered back after a week of rest.  It has been 11 days of rest, and I still feel some pain.  If before it was on the outside (tennis elbow), now it's in the medial part too (golfer's elbow).

What can you do?  Gotta see a PT.  Expensive and next appointment is only available on July 1st!

I am going to start with stretching wrists and massaging arms 5 times a day.
I will modify my training routine such that I have at most 1 hard training session if I am climbing outside on the weekends around the week.

Elsewhere, my weight is hovering at the same level.  Will try to step up cardio: jog tonight and every day of the week.  Also, going to yoga on Tuesday and Thursday.  Reducing the load on the joints is another reason to get below 160 lbs.

Friday, April 17, 2015

167.4

167.4 this morning. Up and down again, but that is familiar.  Hoping for more down.
Last night I misbehaved drinking a smoothie instead of going to sleep early. Felt hungry after the run.

No running this morning due to meetings.  Leaving work early to go pick up my car and got to Yosemite.

Thursday, April 16, 2015

166.4 and resting

This morning I was 166.4. 
Still resting my elbow in prep  for the power phase.
On the downside, I am getting low on energy and very lazy.  Pull up yourself, Dima!

Going for a jog after work today.  5am jog before work tomorrow and Half Dome hike on Saturday.
Will go check out my elbow and LB grounds at Dogpatch on Sunday after the garage sale.

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

167.0

On Tuesday, I have completely slacked and did not work out.  Still nursing my right elbow.  I am happy to forgo an El Cap, Nose run to help the elbow recovery.

Was at 167.0 after a run this morning.  Elbow is feeling better, but was tender at night.
Going to go for another run in the evening.

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

167.6 and resting

Uff, I am really concerned about my right elbow now.  It does not recover as easily as before.  So rest on...  Even more rest after El Cap!

I was loading on carbs for El Cap yesterday; hence, the weight gain.

Monday, April 13, 2015

More Active Rest + Weight Management Start (166.6)

This weekend I realized that I need to recover from my latent elbow and finger injuries.  Therefore, I will not jump into Power phase till after El Cap.  My elbow will have to feel 100% healed before P and PE phases start.

Meanwhile, I am going to concentrate on active rest: running, biking, surfing, and yoga.  Also, I am going to work on my weight management goal: drop to 160 lbs by summer.

Start weight: 166.6 lbs
DON'Ts:
- no food after 8pm in town
- no cheese in town
- no bread in town
DO's:
- daily running
- some additional cardio via yoga, biking or surfing

Still thinking whether I should keep paragliding as a hobby.  It does not add to training, but is such a good rest activity.

Thursday, April 9, 2015

ARC9

Today, I got up at 5:30 and went to the gym as planned.  It was a great ARC workout!  I did a 35 minute ARC set, went into Jodi's yoga class, and finished with 2 more 35 minute ARC sets.
Will go for a jog tonight.

It's time for the Jasper weight comp again. My goal is to get below 160 lbs this time around.  Let's see if I can do it during the power and power endurance phases (1 month).

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Let's rest

After the strength phase, my right arm and middle ring finger need some R&R.  So, I am taking the rest of this week off hard climbing.  I will restart Power phase on Monday/Wednesday next week.

Meanwhile, I got downright lazy today.  I skipped ARC in the morning and jogging at night. 

Tomorrow, I will be ARCing, going to yoga at 7:30am and jogging in the evening.

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Strength phase is over

I had better finish the strength phase.  Not only have I plateaued, I have regressed due to the right elbow and right middle ring finger injuries.  Here are my results from today.
 
HB9 - 4/7/15
First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.

Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*6, +65*5
MR pocket:
+10*2, Stopped due to finger injury.
 Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-10*7, 0*6
IMR pocket:
+40*4, +50*3
Wide pinch:
-35*7, -25*6
Sloper:
+20*7,+30*6
IM pocket
-30*7,-20*6
Narrow pinch:
-50*7,-40*4

I have not recorded supplemental exercises here.  Of note is that I brought the number of Frenchies sets to 5 as max. Went for 1-hour jog.  ARC 3*35min in the morning and yoga/jog/bouldering in the evening tomorrow.

Slacking on Blogging, but not Training

I have to admit I am guilty of not keeping the records.  Trying to get a girl takes some time and, sometimes, may leave you feeling blue.  Luckily, my training has suffered little.  I had to take a forced one week break due to a bad cold 3/24-4/1, but that was great for recovering from my elbow pains.  The recovery was not 100%, but close enough.  My right middle finger is still somewhat tender, so I have to tape, tape, and tape for the hangboard.  Even then, I can feel some pain.  Fortunately, this is my last HB workout 9 today.

Here are my workout records from where I left off:

HB7 - 4/1/15
First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.
Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*7, +65*6
MR pocket:
+10*7, +20*4.  Reduce next time (injury!)
Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-10*7, -5*6 .  Reduce next time.
IMR pocket:
+40*7, +50*4
Wide pinch:
-35*7, -25*5. 
Sloper:
+20*7,+30*6
IM pocket
-30*7,-20*3
Narrow pinch:
(No record)

ARC7 - 4/2/7
35min, 35min

HB8 - 4/3/15
First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.

Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*7, +65*6
MR pocket:
+10*7, +20*4 (Watch mid finger injury!)
Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-10*7, 0*6
IMR pocket:
+40*6, +50*5
Wide pinch:
-35*7, -25*3 (slippery)
Sloper:
+20*7,+30*5
IM pocket
-30*6,-20*4
Narrow pinch:
-50*7,-40*5