Let's rest

After the strength phase, my right arm and middle ring finger need some R&R.  So, I am taking the rest of this week off hard climbing.  I will restart Power phase on Monday/Wednesday next week.

Meanwhile, I got downright lazy today.  I skipped ARC in the morning and jogging at night. 

Tomorrow, I will be ARCing, going to yoga at 7:30am and jogging in the evening.

Strength phase is over

I had better finish the strength phase.  Not only have I plateaued, I have regressed due to the right elbow and right middle ring finger injuries.  Here are my results from today.
 
HB9 - 4/7/15
First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.

Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*6, +65*5
MR pocket:
+10*2, Stopped due to finger injury.
 Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-10*7, 0*6
IMR pocket:
+40*4, +50*3
Wide pinch:
-35*7, -25*6
Sloper:
+20*7,+30*6
IM pocket
-30*7,-20*6
Narrow pinch:
-50*7,-40*4

I have not recorded supplemental exercises here.  Of note is that I brought the number of Frenchies sets to 5 as max. Went for 1-hour jog.  ARC 3*35min in the morning and yoga/jog/bouldering in the evening tomorrow.

Slacking on Blogging, but not Training

I have to admit I am guilty of not keeping the records.  Trying to get a girl takes some time and, sometimes, may leave you feeling blue.  Luckily, my training has suffered little.  I had to take a forced one week break due to a bad cold 3/24-4/1, but that was great for recovering from my elbow pains.  The recovery was not 100%, but close enough.  My right middle finger is still somewhat tender, so I have to tape, tape, and tape for the hangboard.  Even then, I can feel some pain.  Fortunately, this is my last HB workout 9 today.

Here are my workout records from where I left off:

HB7 - 4/1/15
First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.
Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*7, +65*6
MR pocket:
+10*7, +20*4.  Reduce next time (injury!)
Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-10*7, -5*6 .  Reduce next time.
IMR pocket:
+40*7, +50*4
Wide pinch:
-35*7, -25*5. 
Sloper:
+20*7,+30*6
IM pocket
-30*7,-20*3
Narrow pinch:
(No record)

ARC7 - 4/2/7
35min, 35min

HB8 - 4/3/15
First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.

Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*7, +65*6
MR pocket:
+10*7, +20*4 (Watch mid finger injury!)
Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-10*7, 0*6
IMR pocket:
+40*6, +50*5
Wide pinch:
-35*7, -25*3 (slippery)
Sloper:
+20*7,+30*5
IM pocket
-30*6,-20*4
Narrow pinch:
-50*7,-40*5

ARC 6

Getting a cold scrapped my plans to climb Leaning Tower with Ivan.  That is actually good for nursing my elbow.  Too bad I let Ivan down this time.

I went ARCing at Cliffs as I felt better in the afternoon.  I ran two 31 min and one 35 min sessions.  I did overdo it a little, as I was back to feeling crappy at the end of the workout.  I skipped yoga and went home.

Gotta restart my mental training and technique exercises!

No plans for the weekend.  I will play it by ear: depending how I feel.

HB 6

Yesterday, after a week of rest I started training again. Here are my stats:

Hangboard (First set is 7, second is 6 reps. Less means failure.)

Warmup jug:
+50*7
Large Edge, left side:
+55*7, +65*5
MR pocket:
+15*6, +20*3.  Reduce or skip next time (injury!)
Small semi closed crimp, left side:
-5*6, 0*3 .  Reduce next time.
IMR pocket:
+40*7, +50*6
Wide pinch:
-35*6, -30*2.  Hangboard getting slippery.  Reduce weight?
Sloper:
+20*6,+30*5
IM pocket
-30*4,-25*4
Narrow pinch:
-50*7,-40*4

I have obviously plateaued and regressed.  My stats have gotten worse.  I can attribute some of it to the elbow and finger injuries.  I am going to take another break till next week,  If my stats do not come back, I am going to go into power phase given that I am 100% injury free then.

This is my training cycle 2

So psyched!  My training is paying off!  I am finally happy with my mental game progress as well.  I am able to commit to climbing above gear, though with some initial hesitation.  Baby steps!

I just need to be disciplined so that I don't get injured: don't climb and train hard at the same time!  My elbow and hands are jacked after venturing on Silk Road at the Calaveras Dome. 

So, this week, I am unfortunately taking a forced rest.

I am on the strength phase, half way through.  Next is the hang board workout 6 (HB6).  Most likely, my fingers will heal only next week.  Hitting cardio and core!

And the comp is over

Today the comp is over.  Time to start a new training cycle for me!