166.6

Yesterday, I re-injured my back again at the same location.  I restarted training too soon.  I think it's a good idea to end the training season after any significant injury.  In the future, I must plan at least a week of rest before any long trip.

So, I am calling the Smith trip the performance week.  At Smith, I won't try to chase the numbers.  I will concentrate on mental training, taking progressively longer falls on trad and sport.
The goal is to work up to at least 3 trad falls with the gear at my feet. 

After Smith, I am taking a 2-3 week of rest.  I will be going to yoga a lot and going on jogs once in a while.  The idea is to maintain about 1 to 2 hours of physical activity daily.

163.2 and LB2

The weight is back down today.  I have not done anything in particular, so it's water lost.

Today I went to the yoga class in the morning.  I am feeling good, so will do LB2 workout at 4pm!

1.  Elbows are good. Back is 100% recovered after tweaking it during LB1. Smith climbing is going to start on Sunday, so more than 60 hours to recover.
2. Shoulder strengthening exercises done this morning.  Reverse curls will be done after LB2.
3. Will make sure to stretch before and after workout. 
4. LB2 plan: 
• Stretch 15 min
• ARC 15 min
• WBL - 25 min
• Hard bouldering (2 probs) - 25 min
• Create prob on system wall & try it - 30 min
• Green prob 30 min (4-5 attempts)
• Stretch 15 min
5. ---------------------------------------
• Total: 2hrs 35min

165.8 and back from vacation

I know I have slacked with the blog.  It's not pretty, but I am back.  That's all that is important right now.  The rest did me some real good.

Last week, I developed a case of hemorrhoids due to over-straining on Butterfingers.  Woa, definitely a sign that I need to concentrate on mental aspect of climbing!  That is what I am going to do at Smith.  I am going to practice taking falls on gear!  I am going to set some air mileage goals for the trip shortly.

I am happy to announce that my elbows are 100% recovered.  I did an LB session yesterday despite my earlier decision not to pursue Power phase any longer.  I am still looking at what to do with my last stalled training cycle.

So far, here is the list of things that I must do differently in the future:

1. Go into every workout with the stressed body parts 100% recovered and injury free! Ask questions:
•  Are the muscles and tendons that I am going stress 100% injury free?
• Will there be enough time after this workout to recover before a climbing trip?
2. Stretch arms before and after every climbing/workout.  Also, stretch them on the recovery day 2-3 times.
3. Opposing muscle and strengthening exercises after every workout: reverse curls, shoulder raises, lat lifts.  I will look up for more shoulder exercises.
4. Perform training efficiently.  No more 4-5 hour workouts.  The workout should be done within 2-3 hours max.  This will limit opportunity of extra stress and increase rest time.  

165.2. It's back!

The weight is back up.  I ate a little too generously after climbing on Sunday.  I will stop eating at the restaurants after climbing.  A little snack is all that is needed for recovery.

Went to yoga in the afternoon.  Jog after work and plan training today.  I am going to skip Power related phases as my tendons are still getting really sore after climbing.  Lets see what I come up with instead.

I need to work on mental state while climbing above gear.

162.6. Can I go down more?

I woke up at 7:30am this morning, though I went to bed at 9pm.  I fell asleep reading a book, so I woke up around midnight to shut off the lights.  Perhaps, this contributed to the long sleep.  Don't know.  I will try to go straight to bed by 11pm tonight. 

The good part is that I did not misbehave and went to bed after yoga and a cup of tea with honey.  My weight has not changed from yesterday, although I did have a bit too much of a second lunch before yoga.  I went for a jog feeling a little weak, so, I was asking myself if this diet game is good for me.  We shall see when I get to 160 lb.  I will listen to my body and stop dieting if necessary.

My rehab is almost done.  The elbow feels much better.  I shall keep stretching my arms 3 times a day (only twice yesterday).  Other stretching routines and yoga have been lacking.  I am going to restart them next week as well.

Today, I am going to ARC, stretch, work core, and opposing muscles.  Tomorrow will be a rest day with some jogging and stretching.  I am going to write down a training routine for the rest of the training cycle by Sunday, analyzing what I need to do to avoid re-injuring myself.

Next week, I am either continuing with Power phase or skipping to Performance.  Skipping to Performance has the benefit of allowing my elbow to heal more before dynamically loading it with LB training.

162.6. My youth weight, we meet again!

Yesterday, I went for a jog after work.  It definitely helps me drop a couple of pounds.  The trick is not to eat anything dangerous afterwards.  I should have gone straight to sleep almost right after the run.  Instead, I munged on a couple of pieces of cheese.  Shame!

This morning, the great balancer was merciful and showed my weight at a number I don't recall seeing ever.  Thank you! I am going to prove myself worthy.  My goal for this week is to go down another 0.5 lbs.  This will put me on track to 160 lbs by the end of May.

Tonight, I am going to the Yoga class with Jodi.  The class's end at 8 will put me square before the bed time.  I will go to bed at 9 and get up at 4/5.  Jog and gym in the morning!

162.8 + Rehab

Wohoo there! I know I have slacked on my blog.  Mostly it's because I went to climb in Yosemite for 4 days.  While we bailed off the Nose, I managed not to destroy my elbow recovery.  It's getting better.  I am stretching only 1-2 times daily, but intend to pick it up again now.

I added 2 more recovery yoga classes on Monday and Wednesday.  I will keep it going for another 15 sessions or so.

Today, I went to the gym to test my shoulder and elbows on harder climbs.  Climbed my first 12d at the gym with 4 falls.  I will start training power next week taking into account the lessons of the injury: stretch and take rests more than you think you need.

My weight challenge is going great; though, I suspect it has a bit to do with climbing El Cap.  I clocked at 162.8 - my lowest weight on record.  I am gearing to go to 160 by my Smith Rock trip in the last week of may.  That's 1 lb a week.  I can do it! 

Off to a jog tonight and no food thereafter.